5/8/2023 0 Comments Talismania design![]() ![]() Size was applied as a paste, and once dry, it was polished, forming a reflective, smooth surface. Their results showed traces of starch, which was commonly used in the Islamic world in the size used for the surface treatment of paper and textiles. The Textile and Science Conservation teams at the V&A carried out analysis on the cloth to find out what was used to stiffen it. It is constructed from three pieces of cloth that were stiffened and polished: one large rectangular length with a circular opening for the neck and a slit at the front so that it could pass over the wearer’s head, and two smaller pieces forming the arms. At first viewing, this shirt appears to be made from paper, but like the majority of surviving talismanic shirts, the V&A’s shirt is actually made from cotton. Early examples of these shirts from India, such as the one chosen for The Fabric of India exhibition, are exceptionally rare – especially so, one in such wonderful condition. It was produced during the period of the Delhi Sultanate (1206–1526), a Muslim state that ruled over vast areas of the Indian subcontinent. The talismanic shirt to be displayed in the show has been attributed to India and dated to some time in the 15th or 16th century. “Take this, my shirt, and cast it over the face of my father he will become seeing. It is even credited with performing miracles – as when it restored the vision of Joseph’s father Jacob (Ya‘qub in Arabic), following an instruction recorded in the Qur’an, Surah Yusuf (XII, verse 93): The prophet Joseph (Yusuf in Arabic) is believed to have owned one that protected him from hardship and evil. The history of talismanic shirts goes back a very, very long way. Talismanic objects were made in many different forms and sizes, and some were even worn as clothing, as in the case of the shirt discussed here. The Arabic text of the Qur’an is sacred to Muslims and because of this, many believe that an object which is inscribed with the words of God will protect the person who reads, touches, carries or sees it from misfortune and evil. In Islam, most talismanic objects are designed and decorated with astrological signs, magic squares, abjad numerals, religious narratives, representations of the prophets in a variety of media, and Qur’anic inscriptions. Museum no T.59-1935 © Victoria and Albert Museum, LondonĪ talisman is an object that has protective powers. ![]() What a fabulous opportunity for me to combine my love of textiles and talismans, and to perhaps be touched by some magic too! Talismanic shirt. The shirt they wanted me to discuss for the exhibition will be going on display for the first time since it was acquired by the Museum in 1935. But as my research interests include epigraphy, textiles and talismanic objects, I was invited to the Textile Conservation department to discuss the V&A’s spectacular example of a talismanic shirt with the Fabric of India team. However, amongst all of those treasures on display, the object I am most intrigued by is an Islamic talismanic shirt.Īs an assistant curator in the Middle Eastern section, I wasn’t at all expecting to be involved with The Fabric of India exhibition. The Fabric of India exhibition will display a vast range of exquisite examples of textiles from all over India, dating from the 3rd to the 21st century. Behnaz provided invaluable insight into the object, and she generously agreed to give us all a primer on talismanic shirts for today’s blog. Thanks to this expertise she was temporarily drafted onto the Fabric of India team when conservation work began on the V&A’s own talismanic shirt, which will appear in the exhibition. Since she joined the Museum two years ago, she has carried out research on talismanic shirts and other objects of that type. Behnaz Atighi Moghaddam is an assistant curator in the Middle Eastern section at the V&A. ![]()
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